This writeup was lead-authored by our senior technical adviser, Sunbin Song, PhD. Sunbin graduated from MIT with a degree in Biology before receiving a doctorate in neuroscience from Georgetown and becoming a research scientist at the NIH. When Sunbin isn't busy researching the brain, she loves to explore how we can best nurture our body, mind and spirit to live more joyful lives. Sunbin on Google Scholar / on ResearchGate.
Hi, everyone! Welcome to our "More than Skin Deep" series. In the first two newsletters, we had discussed the benefits of vitamins, specifically Vitamins A (retinoids) and C (ascorbic acid), for maintaining youthful and healthy skin. In this newsletter, we continue our discussion of vitamins with Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), an excellent ingredient for maintaining overall skin health.
- 01What is Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and why does our body need it?
- 02What can niacinamide do for my skin?
- 03What should I look for in a niacinamide product?
- 04How do I use niacinamide?
- 05Can niacinamide be used with Vitamin C or retinoids?
- 06The wrap-up
- 07Appendix: How niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier
What is Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and why does our body need it?
Let's begin by going over a few key points:
There are two key members of the Vitamin B3 family: niacinamide (also known as nicotinamide) and niacin (also known as nicotinic acid). You can ingest Vitamin B3 either in the form of niacinamide or niacin, and they both eventually get converted into NAD and NADP.
Vitamin B3 is so essential that without enough in your diet, you would get a gnarly skin condition called Pellagra — a condition where your face and body become covered in scaly sores (see figure below, reproduced from Matts et al. 2002). Over time, the skin stiffens, peels and bleeds. In short, skin breaks down without Vitamin B3.
You may be thinking — most of us do not have Pellagra nor a dietary Vitamin B deficiency, so why should we care?
As we age, Vitamin B3 and associated NAD levels in the skin start declining (Berson et al. 2014, Schultz and Sinclair 2016). Less NAD directly correlates to less healthy skin cells, which means less vibrant skin.
In fact, this aging-related NAD decline is so fundamentally natural and pervasive that it occurs in both humans and animals alike (Matts et al. 2002). Hence, the NAD decline occurs at the cellular level over time and cannot be escaped by any behavioral or lifestyle change except supplementation.
This decline in NAD due to aging can be measured and quantified. If you create cell lines cultured from mature skin and compare it to a cell line cultured from that of a young person, the cell line from mature skin will have less total NAD and NADP levels (e.g., 28% in a 70-year-old versus 51% in a 7-year-old — Matts et al. 2002). When treated with topical niacinamide, however, these cell lines from mature skin will be restored to higher levels of NAD and NADP intercellularly (Gehring 2004). Ultimately, we know that topical niacinamide can be used to supplement NAD levels in aging skin (Bissett et al. 2004, Matts et al. 2009).
What can niacinamide do for my skin, and how does it work?
By topical application of niacinamide, you supplement declining levels of NAD and NADP in aging skin cells. This leads to four key benefits:
Benefit 1 – Niacinamide fortifies the skin barrier and increases its ability to retain moisture
The stratum corneum (also referred to as the "skin barrier") is the outermost layer of the skin. It works like shrink wrap around your body — keeping water in and microbes out.
Side note: we'll use "stratum corneum" and "skin barrier" interchangeably. The former is a technical name and the latter is a functional name.
The way the stratum corneum accomplishes its skin barrier function is by utilizing a "brick and mortar" structure of embedding protein in fats. More specifically, the skin barrier is composed of "bricks" of protein-enriched corneocytes (corneocytes = dead skin cells) embedded in the "mortar" of lipid-enriched intercellular matrices made up of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol (Elias 1996). This structure works wondrously for the body in keeping water in and pathogens out.
Unfortunately, as we age the "bricks and mortar" weaken and develop cracks. This is in part because NAD and NADP — which also decline with age — are cofactors in many crucial biological processes that maintain the strength of the skin barrier (including in the synthesis of fatty acids and ceramides as well as proteins like keratin). Therefore, the decline in the levels of NAD and NADP directly leads to the breaking down of the skin barrier.
The skin barrier then starts becoming leaky and makes it easy for moisture to escape. This results in dry and dull-looking skin (increase in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and worsening moisture deficiency in the stratum corneum) (Gehring 2004).
Niacinamide (by converting into NAD and NADP once absorbed into the skin) can empower regeneration of all the constituents of the skin barrier — proteins such as keratin, involucrin, and filaggrin, as well as good lipids like ceramides, cholesterol, and other free fatty acids. When you have a good skin barrier, you can keep water in (avoid dry skin) and keep impurities out (avoid sensitivity and irritation).
Sub-topic 1: Niacinamide can alleviate the dryness and redness associated with rosacea
Niacinamide has been shown to improve skin barrier function and also increase skin moisture levels in those suffering from rosacea (Draelos et al. 2005) and atopic dermatitis (Soma et al. 2005). Niacinamide's anti-inflammatory effects also lessened reddening of the skin (Draelos et al. 2005).
Interestingly, Soma et al. 2005 showed that a moisturizer with niacinamide improved dryness in those with atopic dermatitis, while white petroleum did not. Although both were better than using nothing, niacinamide was significantly better at hydrating the skin than petroleum jelly. This suggests a lighter weight niacinamide moisturizer is superior to a heavy occlusive like white petroleum (e.g. vaseline) in terms of keeping skin hydrated.
If you've been interested in trying "slugging" (coating your skin in a thin layer of petroleum jelly) to help with dry skin, you might see much better results with niacinamide-infused serums or creams.
Sub-topic 2: Niacinamide can alleviate winter skin dryness
Seasonal variations may also cause damage to the skin barrier, as in the case of winter skin dryness called xerosis. Studies show topical niacinamide increased skin hydration in those suffering from xerosis (Gehring 2004). Some formulations target winter xerosis by combining niacinamide with panthenol (Vitamin B5) and palmitoylethanolamide, and this combination is well tolerated even in those with self-perceived sensitive skin (Nisbet et al. 2019).
To recap, niacinamide has been shown to boost the health of the skin barrier in a wide range of skin conditions:
You can read more in-depth technical details on how niacinamide works to improve the skin barrier in Appendix A.
Benefit 2 – Niacinamide can reduce inflammation and hyperpigmentation and even decrease the risk of melanoma
Inflammation is one of the leading causes of hyperpigmentation — so by preventing inflammation, you are also preventing hyperpigmentation.
Niacinamide, in our opinion, is one of the most studied and best-proven topical anti-inflammatories. So if you're suffering from acne, try using niacinamide to alleviate inflammation, which in turn helps prevent hyperpigmentation and acne marks from forming.
Alternatively, Vitamin C, hydroxy acids and retinoids (other "bedrock" skincare ingredients we love) aren't as effective anti-inflammatories. So if you're already using these other potent ingredients, adding niacinamide to your skincare routine can boost its overall effectiveness because niacinamide adds a new dimension to the overall skincare treatment.
Niacinamide prevents cytokine-mediated induction of nitric oxide synthase, which leads to a decrease in inflammation (Sahin et al. 2021). Its anti-inflammatory effects are mediated by inhibition of NFkB-transcription of pro-inflammatory mediators, and inhibition of expression of interleukins that mediate inflammation (Wohlrahb et al. 2014). Hyperpigmentation following acne inflammation is common, and niacinamide treatment significantly decreases IL-8 production from P. acnes bacteria in a dose-dependent manner, preventing inflamed papules (Grange et al. 2010).
In addition to its role as an anti-inflammatory, niacinamide has other mechanisms with which it combats hyperpigmentation. Niacinamide inhibits melanin (the natural skin color pigment) from spreading throughout the skin. This makes niacinamide the perfect complement to other well-known anti-hyperpigmentation ingredients like Vitamin C, arbutin and kojic acid that work by inhibiting melanin production.
Niacinamide combats hyperpigmentation in both naturally aged and sun-damaged skin, as well as in melasma. However, the results fade when niacinamide usage is discontinued, so routine use of niacinamide is necessary to maintain its benefits.
Niacinamide prevents the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes into surrounding keratinocytes — a mechanism completely distinct from tyrosinase inhibition (Hakozaki et al. 2002). Clinically, this has been shown to decrease hyperpigmentation in aging skin, sun-damaged skin (Kimball et al. 2009), melasma (Navarrete-Solis et al. 2011), and axillary hyperpigmentation (Castanedo-Cazares et al. 2016). The effect is dose-dependent — 5% niacinamide is more effective than 2% (Koshoffer et al. 2005). Benefits lasted for several weeks after stopping, but faded after a few months, underscoring the need for continued use.
Yet another way in which niacinamide can help with pigmentation is the role it may play in repairing sun-damaged melanocytes (specialized skin cells that produce melanin). Healthier melanocytes lead to better-modulated melanin production, which in turn leads to a more even skin tone.
Another mechanism involves niacinamide's role in DNA repair after UV damage in melanocytes — the same mechanism behind its promise as a chemoprevention agent for melanoma (Thompson et al. 2014). When DNA becomes methylated in response to UV, those methylated regions also activate pro-inflammatory and pro-melanogenic genes. Niacinamide's ability to reduce methylated DNA allowed it to reduce melasma-based hyperpigmentation after 8 weeks compared to placebo (Campuzana et al. 2019). Niacinamide also has photoprotective effects and protects against UV-induced immune suppression (Wohlrahb et al. 2014) as well as antioxidant properties that guard against reactive oxygen species in keratinocytes (Zhen et al. 2019).
Benefit 3 – Niacinamide can lead to smoother and less wrinkled skin
Aging is associated with a loss of collagen and other less well-known proteins such as keratin, filaggrin and involucrin. The loss of these proteins leads to a host of undesirable outcomes such as development of wrinkles and decreased bounciness. Niacinamide can counteract these changes.
Topical application of niacinamide can increase protein synthesis of collagen. Collagen gives the skin its firmness, so increasing collagen is like strengthening a scaffold for your skin.
Topical application of niacinamide can also lead to increased production of other beneficial proteins (keratin, filaggrin and involucrin) and lipids (ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol) that make up the skin barrier, promoting smoother and firmer skin that's less prone to dryness and sensitivity.
One study found significant improvement in aging skin with 2.5% niacinamide. A later study found 5% niacinamide had a greater impact on skin smoothness and wrinkle depth reduction compared to 2% (Gehring 2004). Bissett et al. 2004 found that 5% niacinamide not only reduced fine lines and wrinkles and improved texture, but also reduced skin yellowing and red blotchiness. A follow-up study confirmed 5% niacinamide also improved elasticity in aging skin (Bissett et al. 2006). Additional anti-aging mechanisms include reduction in excess dermal glycosaminoglycans (Bissett et al. 2004) and activation of autophagy processes that clear damaged mitochondrial components in aging cells (Oblong et al. 2020).
Benefit 4 – Niacinamide can help control oily skin, fight acne-causing bacteria, and shrink pore size
Draelos et al. (2006) tested a 2% niacinamide on Caucasian and Japanese skin and reported that it led to a significant reduction in sebum excretion rate and overall sebum levels. The reduction in sebum naturally led to significant decreases in facial shine and oiliness in addition to overall improvements in skin condition.
You might be wondering how this all works. While the exact mechanism is not known, the prevailing theory is that niacinamide alters the reservoir in the duct connecting the sebaceous gland to the skin's surface.
Niacinamide's influence on sebum is a key reason why it's so effective in reducing blemishes in people with oily, blemish-prone skin (Santos-Caetano et al. 2019), as well as treating mild to moderate acne (Kaymak and Onder 2008).
Niacinamide has also been successfully combined with salicylic acid in treating acne. This combination leads to better skin hydration than using benzoyl peroxide and has comparable acne lesion benefits. This combination of applying niacinamide with salicylic acid is also associated with a decrease in pore size (Berson et al. 2014).
Yet another reason why niacinamide is great for treating acne-prone skin is that it is an anti-inflammatory that helps alleviate redness and prevents marks from forming. Niacinamide treatment significantly prevents acne-induced inflammation (by decreasing interleukin production from P. acnes) (Grange et al. 2010). In clinical studies, treatment with 4% niacinamide in acne reduced inflammatory papules (Gehring 2004).
Finally, niacinamide keeps your skin healthier by killing harmful pathogens (bacteria, virus and fungus). Niacinamide can activate antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) like psoriasin which can kill E. coli, S. aureus, P. aeruginosa, and P. acnes — bacteria that can reside on the skin and cause sickness, inflammation, and acne (Mathaphathi et al. 2017). Niacinamide also has antiretroviral and fungistatic effects (Wohlrahb et al. 2014). One clinical trial found that 4% niacinamide gel was as effective as the antibiotic clindamycin in reducing acne lesions and acne severity (Shalita et al. 1995).
OK, I'm convinced! What should I look for in a niacinamide product?
Niacinamide is a popular skincare ingredient and has been a mainstay for many anti-aging products on the market. It is safe to use during pregnancy and is quite gentle. Studies have shown that the benefits of niacinamide are greater for 5% concentrations than for 2% concentrations, so you should look for concentrations of at least 5%. However, there is no compelling evidence that benefits are meaningfully greater at concentrations higher than 5%.
How do I use niacinamide?
We recommend applying niacinamide twice daily as part of both your AM and PM routines.
Since niacinamide protects against the effects of UV rays (and UV-induced photo-suppression), like Vitamin C, niacinamide can be used to help bolster your skin's defenses during the day (Wohlrahb et al. 2014). And we all know that when it comes to keeping our skin healthy and youthful, an ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure.
Because niacinamide is so well tolerated and has wide-ranging benefits, you can use it round-the-clock to maximize its benefits.
In terms of layering with your other products, the general rule of going from thinnest to thickest in texture works well — serums then gels then creams. With about 60 to 90 seconds of pause between steps to give each product time to sink into the skin.
Can niacinamide be used in combination with Vitamin C or retinoids?
Yes and yes!
Niacinamide is complementary to Vitamin C in overall skin health, however, look for these ingredients in two separate products. The reasoning behind this is because niacinamide should be formulated in the pH range of 5 to 6, while Vitamin C products are optimal at a pH range of 3 to 4.
While niacinamide and Vitamin C work well together in a skincare routine (separately applied in layers), you don't want a product that combines them both in a single formula. Think of it like peanut butter and jelly — they make a great combination, but you probably don't want them mixed together in a jar.
With retinoids, niacinamide can alleviate the dryness and irritation that retinoids can induce. So not only is it possible to use niacinamide with retinoids — it's recommended!
To wrap it all up
Now that we've given you all of this information about niacinamide, let's recap:
Niacinamide is an extensively studied and proven ingredient that can keep your skin smoother, firmer and better hydrated. It's also a fantastic anti-inflammatory that can help with redness and hyperpigmentation, and it can combat acne and control oily skin as well. It is safe to use during pregnancy, non-teratogenic (does not cause birth defects), and well-tolerated even by those with sensitive skin, rosacea, winter xerosis, and atopic dermatitis. Niacinamide can truly do it all, and that's why we recommend it as a key building block in everyone's skincare regimen.
Why we wrote this
With such a vast amount of information available about skincare on the internet, it can be overwhelming trying to figure out what to believe.
Our aim was to summarize the main, validated, scientific findings on beneficial skincare ingredients in an in-depth but easy to digest manner. That way, you'll be informed about how skincare ingredients and products really work. You'll also be empowered to filter information, enabling you to have more productive conversations with your physician.
This writeup is not a sales pitch, but rather it's meant to provide you with helpful information that can be verified with widely available public information. That's why there are no mentions of any proprietary research. If you're curious about Maelove's niacinamide offering, you can check out our NIA 10 Niacinamide Serum.
Appendix A – More on how niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier
As niacinamide boosts NADP concentration, treatment of keratinocytes in cell culture with niacinamide increased the rate of ceramide biosynthesis by 4–5 times depending on niacinamide concentration, and had similar dramatic effects on the synthesis of glucosylceramide and sphingomyelin (both are synthesized from ceramide intercellularly and packaged into vesicles before being reverted back to ceramide extracellularly) as well as the activity of the rate-limiting enzyme responsible for ceramide synthesis (Tanno et al. 2008). Free fatty acid and cholesterol synthesis also increased. In vivo, this resulted in lower TEWL with topical niacinamide (Tanno et al. 2008). The action of niacinamide on ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol — the three components of the lipid-rich mortar — strengthens the skin barrier and helps retain moisture.
Aging is also associated with a loss of proteins such as keratin, filaggrin and involucrin, the losses of which contribute to a reduction of moisture in the stratum corneum. Filaggrin is an antecedent for natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) that help maintain the acid mantle of the stratum corneum corneocytes, while keratin helps build epidermal cell structure and involucrin is involved in the cell envelope and structure of the stratum corneum corneocytes.
By boosting NADP levels in aging skin, it was found that protein synthesis also improved, leading to increases in the synthesis of keratin, filaggrin and involucrin (Gehring 2004). Overall, stratum corneum cells treated with niacinamide versus vehicle have larger and more mature corneocytes, decreased inflammatory activity and increased stratum corneum thickness (Mohammed et al. 2013).
In other words, niacinamide strengthens the protein-rich bricks and lipid-rich mortar to strengthen the skin barrier function of the stratum corneum and decrease TEWL, leading to better hydration in aged skin.
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