Glow Maker uses L-Ascorbic Acid, also known as Vitamin C, which is one of nature’s best antioxidants and indeed, one of the primary defenses against UV damage employed by the skin. Special receptors in the skin pull Vitamin C out of your bloodstream to pack your skin full of this protective antioxidant which is also the most plentiful antioxidant in the skin (Pullar et al. 2017). The number one cause of premature aging of the skin is UV damage from the sun’s rays. When your skin is exposed to UV rays, free radicals are spawned. These free radicals are like ricocheting bullets tearing up collagen and even DNA leading to photoaged skin and skin cancers. Fine lines and wrinkles, sunspots, ruptured blood vessels, enlarged pores, and rough coarse skin are some of the features of photoaged skin.

A benefit of Vitamin C is that it can brighten and even out your skin tone by treating hyperpigmentation. This is not only because Vitamin C can fight UV damage which is a main cause of hyperpigmentation, but also because it can inhibit an enzyme (tyrosinase) involved in skin pigment production. A concentration of at least 10% Ascorbic acid is recommended to get maximal benefits against UV induced hyperpigmentation (DeDormeal et al. 2019).

This serum works simultaneously in two phases. The first phase is to fade existing spots with hydroquinone alternatives. The second is to help prevent hyperpigmentation with antioxidants and anti-inflammatories.

Hydroquinone is what is termed a “lightening agent” or “depigmenting agent” because it inhibits the synthesis of melanin. Melanin is the main pigment found in your skin and made by specialized skin cells called melanocytes. In hyperpigmentation, some melanocytes become overactive leading to an uneven skin tone. Hydroquinone is a tyrosinase inhibitor. Tyrosinase is the enzyme that makes melanin. Hence, by inhibiting tyrosinase function in overactive melanocytes, dark spots can start to fade over time.

Traditionally, hydroquinone has been used to treat hyperpigmentation. However, hydroquinone is considered unsafe by the cosmetic ingredient review (CIR) committee and is even banned in many parts of the world including Europe and Japan. This is because hydroquinone is toxic to melanocytes and long-term usage can lead to skin bleaching or a blue-black skin discoloration condition called exogenous ochronosis (Davis and Callender 2010). Hence, we replaced hydroquinone with the best trio of natural and safe depigmenting agents that can be used long-term. This is why we are a dermatologist favorite, as hydroquinone is not safe to use long-term.

Alpha arbutin, kojic acid, and licorice root inhibit the melanin overproduction underlying dark spots via a mechanism similar to hydroquinone - but without the safety concerns. These compounds are tyrosinase inhibitors which are non-toxic to melanocytes. Though not as potent as hydroquinone, by combining several of these weaker and safer tyrosinase inhibitors, a synergy is created that provides a safe but powerful topical to address hyperpigmentation (Boo 2021, Chandorkar et al. 2021, Hollinger et al. 2018, Woolery-Lloyd and Kammer 2011).

Arbutin is found in the leaves of the bearberry shrub or pear, cranberry, and blueberry plants, and it inhibits tyrosinase activity (Maeda and Fukuda 1996). Alpha arbutin shows specificity for mammalian tyrosinase and its effect on human tyrosinase is the greatest in its class while displaying no cytotoxicity to cells even at high concentrations (Sugimoto et al. 2004). Alpha-arbutin compared to hydroquinone is also less irritating as shown in several clinical studies confirming it safety (Chandorkar et al. 2021). Synergies increase this effectiveness and have been described with aloesin from aloe (Choi et al. 2002). Combination creams have also been tested that have equaled or exceeded the anti-melanin effects of hydroquinone. These include combinations with tranexamic acid (Boo 2021, Chandorkar et al. 2021). Aloe and tranexamic acid are included in Fade Away.

Kojic acid is an antibiotic produced by a species of fungi that is a powerful inhibitor of tyrosinase (Briganti et al. 2003). It was thought to work by chelating copper at the active site of the tyrosinase enzyme although a more recent study suggests it binds the active site of tyrosinase preventing substrates from binding (Deri et al. 2016).

Licorice root extract contain several flavonoids that inhibit tyrosinase including Glabridine, Isoliquirtin and Glabrene (Briganti et al. 2003, Chang 2009, Zhu and Gao 2008). Glabridine can prevent UVB induced pigmentation and has additional anti-inflammatory effects (Sarker et al. 2013). Finally, flavonoid Liquiritin in licorice extract improves hyperpigmentation in clinical trials though not through tyrosinase inhibition but rather through melanin dispersal and as an anti-inflammatory that can help in the treatment of melasma (Hollinger et al. 2018). Licorice extract has long been used for skin lightening in East Asian countries (Davis and Callender 2010).

For those with lighter skin tones, the culprit is often UV and free radical damage which accumulates with age leaving sun spots. For those with darker skin tones, the culprit behind these spots is often inflammation and in particular after skin injury from acne lesions. In some, a combination of UV and hormonal fluctuations may be the culprit in a genetic condition called melasma. For many it is a combination of two or all three of these factors (Davis and Callender 2010, Ortonne and Bissett 2008).

Fade Away serum aims to address all these causes of hyperpigmentation. As mentioned, the first step is sunscreen and a good vitamin C antioxidant serum. The additional antioxidants in Fade Away supply additional strong support. Fade Away includes anti-inflammatories to help prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Specifically, Fade Away contains potent antioxidant glutathione, anti-inflammatory marine red algae extract, and botanical extracts with over 40 known phytocompounds. These botanicals, long used throughout cultures for skin care, are known to contain powerful phyto-compounds that have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and include ferulic acid, quercetin, zeatin, curcumin, carnosic acid, carnosol, eucalyptol, eugenol, luteolin, gallic acid, aloe-emodin, aloin, acemannan, sesamol, carvacrol, thymol, linalool, camphor, borneol, oleonolic acid, ursolic acid, rosmaric acid, azadirachtin, nimbidol, nimbolinin, nimbin, nimbidin, gedunin, salannin, beta-sitosterol, glycyrrhixin, licochalcone A, caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, oleanolic acid, and a host of other polyphenols and flavonoids that have been scientifically shown to prevent inflammation and neutralize free radical activity. Red algae extract also contains marine compounds that have not yet been fully identified, but have been tested for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Glutathione is a powerful antioxidant, typically produced in cells that has been shown to brighten skin.

Yes. We can not stress enough the need to continue use of sunscreen which is your best friend in your fight against hyperpigmentation. Sun exposure from the sun's rays darken spots at a rapid rate, quicker than the rate at which Fade Away can fade them. Sun exposure is often unavoidable and a good broad spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF 30 and The Glow Maker vitamin C serum will help minimize the sun's rays effect on skin. The antioxidants and anti-inflammatories in Glow Maker and Fade Away are meant to support and not replace sunscreen.

Yes you can. However, we recommend consulting your doctor and follow their protocol.

Vitamin C is rated Category A in pregnancy by the FDA which means Vitamin C has been evaluated by clinical trials in pregnant women and deemed safe. The actives including Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, and Hyaluronic Acid are all considered generally safe to use topically during pregnancy and lactation. However, it is always advisable to check with your doctor regarding skin care products and ingredients.

There are some doctors who say Alpha Arbutin should not be used during pregnancy, while others will say it is fine to use. The concern over arbutin is based on studies that have shown skin bacteria and UV can lead to hydrolysis of arbutin into hydroquinone although this amount is believed to be insignificant (Boo 2021). But, due to this association with hydroquinone, some dermatologists will recommend that pregnant women do not use arbutin. At Maelove, we recommend that you first speak with your doctor about this ingredient to get their opinion. Please check out our extended writeup on how to treat hyperpigmentation while pregnant.

Both the color and the scent of Fade Away are all-natural. The botanical blend of extracts in the formula is responsible for the serum’s vibrant green color and natural scent. Many customers report the serum smells like thyme. We never use any artificial fragrances, perfumes, or dyes in our products.

Due to the nature of vitamin C, it is normal for your serum to change colors over time. The initial color of each production batch can vary slightly depending on the batch of ferulic acid and natural extracts used, due to natural shade variations in these ingredients.Even if your serum turns yellow, we've infused our serum with ingredients like ferulic and metabisulfite that help stabilize the vitamin C, so you're in good hands. It is time to toss and replace your Glow Maker when it starts to turn a brown color. Most bottles are good for 3-6 months after opening.One tip to help keep your serum at its freshest is to squeeze and hold the dropper top while you close the bottle to eliminate excess air. Storing the bottle in the fridge also keeps the serum at its freshest.