Anti-Aging Routine

The most important anti-aging aspect of topical vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) is its role as one of nature’s best antioxidants and indeed, one of the primary defenses against UV damage employed by the skin. Under normal conditions, special receptors in the skin pull vitamin C out of your bloodstream to pack your skin full of this protective antioxidant which is also the most plentiful antioxidant in the skin (Pullar et al. 2017). The number one cause of premature aging of the skin is UV damage from the sun’s rays. When your skin is exposed to UV rays, free radicals are spawned. These free radicals are like ricocheting bullets tearing up collagen and even DNA leading to photo-aged skin and skin cancers. Fine lines and wrinkles, sunspots, ruptured blood vessels, enlarged pores, and rough coarse skin are some of the features of photo-aged skin.

Unfortunately, like so many processes that occur with general aging, the vitamin C content in your skin wanes as you age irrespective of diet, as poor blood flow and nutrient delivery start to affect levels. In other words, your natural defenses against UV damage go down with aging. This is where topical supplementation can remedy the situation as the skin absorbs the vitamin C applied at the skin’s surface (Pullar et al. 2017).

A second reason vitamin C is such an excellent anti-aging ingredient is that it boosts collagen production. Collagen is the main structural protein in the skin and its decline and degradation are the main drivers of fine lines and wrinkles. The collagen content in skin decreases over time – roughly 1% per year with accelerated loss post-menopause – leading to wrinkles and sagging as we get older. vitamin C is necessary in collagen production. The ability of topical vitamin C to boost collagen production has been demonstrated in placebo-controlled trials of aged skin in postmenopausal women (Nusgens et al. 2001) and in those with photoaged skin (Traikovitch 1999). Note that the role of vitamin C in collagen production is also responsible for its beneficial role in wound healing and for the skin symptoms of scurvy which results from vitamin C deficiency (Pullar et al. 2017).

When speaking about anti-aging ingredients, the number one spot is always taken by retinoids such as retinol, retinal, and tretinoin. Of the three, retinal has the best trade-off between potency and irritation. It is almost as potent as tretinoin which is 10-20 times stronger than retinol at the same concentration, while being less irritating that both at matched potency.

Retinoids are well-studied vitamin A related compounds. Retinoids address most of the issues surrounding aging skin. With aging, the skin gets less blood flow (less vascularized), becomes thinner and more lax, and finely lined. Additional photo-aging from sun damage results in hyperpigmentation spots, rough patches (actinic keratosis), enlarged pores and deep wrinkles. Topical retinoids have been scientifically shown to help treat every one of these issues because they act on nuclear receptors that regular the activation of many genes in a wide variety of cell types (Mukherjee et al. 2006).

First, retinoids increase blood flow to the skin by increasing endothelial cell proliferation leading to increased vascularity. Second, it thickens the epidermal layer of skin by upregulating the proliferation of skin cells (keratinocytes). Third, it reduces fine lines and wrinkles by upregulating collagen production and other components of the extracellular matrix (ECM) including elastin, fibronectin and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). It does so by increasing dermal fibroblast activity and decreasing collagenase production. Fourth, retinoids can improve hyperpigmentation and the appearance of pore size by inhibiting melanosome transfer to keratinocytes from melanocytes, and accelerating cell turnover. These patterns of results have been replicated in study after study in aged skin and photoaged skin (Saurat et al. 1994, Kafi et al. 2007, Kong et al. 2015, Shao et al. 2017, Bouloc et al. 2014, Creidi et al. 1998, Leydon et al. 2017, Zasada and Budzisz 2019).

Ideally when treating hyperpigmentation and dark spots, a combinatory approach is recommended. For example, it has been scientifically shown that combinations of retinoids with ‘depigmenting agents’ such as hydroquinone or arbutin, or with vitamin C, or with glycolic acid works better than any of these agents used alone (Mukherjee et al. 2006). This anti-aging kit contain a retinoid (retinal in Moonlight), vitamin C (in Glow Maker), and glycolic acid (Night Renewer) to help target dark spots and generally even out skin tone.

Our hyperpigmentation specialist (Fade Away serum) is not included in this kit and contains a trio of depigmenting agents that are hydroquinone alternatives. This serum can be added to this routine for more intensive treatment of hyperpigmentation in those for whom dark spots are a primary concern.

Retinoids even out skin tone by inhibiting melanosome (think sacs that contain melanin) transfer to keratinocytes (skin cells) from melanocytes (cells that make melanin). They also help accelerate the rate at which your skin cells renew allowing dark spots to fade faster (Leydon et al. 2017, Zasada and Budzisz 2019). Vitamin C can not only fight UV damage which is a main cause of hyperpigmentation, but also can inhibit an enzyme (tyrosinase) involved in skin pigment production. A concentration of at least 10% Ascorbic acid is recommended to get maximal benefits against UV induced hyperpigmentation (DeDormeal et al. 2019). Glycolic acid can exfoliate and increase cell turnover which will help slough off hyperpigmented skin and rapidly disperse existing pigment which helps to fade the appearance of hyperpigmentation (Kornhauser et al. 2012).

Products such as the 10% glycolic acid cream Night Renewer will have immediate visible results starting from the very first day after overnight usage. These benefits include a smooth and radiant complexion. Longer term changes to underlying skin take longer to develop and may take weeks to months.

For high potency retinoid products such as Moonlight, though these products start working right away at the cellular level, it takes a while to see a visible difference in fine lines and wrinkles. With special equipment, significant changes underneath the skin can be measured and visualized after just seven days. However, in order for there to be a noticeable difference in the appearance of wrinkles and overall skin texture with the naked eye, it typically takes four to six weeks.

For vitamin C, scientific studies show that the skin will absorb (L-Ascorbic Acid) optimally from a serum when the concentration is between 10-20% Ascorbic Acid. At these concentrations, it reaches saturation after 3 days of consistent daily application (Pinnel et al. 2001). Hence, after 3 days of consistent daily application of Glow Maker, vitamin C levels will reach saturation and begin to provide optimal protection to your skin.

This anti-aging kit covers the basics that will get you visible results with a simple routine that includes a serum for the morning, a serum for the evening, and a cream for the evening. For those who want to really maximize anti-aging actives and are willing to have a slightly more built out routine, we recommend the following:

Adding Peptide Squad collagen renewal serum to your routine will let you take advantage of all four classes of wrinkle-fighting peptides that will really kick-start collagen renewal and inhibit expression lines. This includes signal peptides (Matrixyl 3000), copper peptides (GHK-Cu), neurotransmitter inhibiting peptides (Argireline), and enzyme inhibitor peptides (rice peptides). Hydro Relief cream additionally contains soy peptides and amino acids that have hydrating and anti-aging benefits.

Along with vitamin C, retinoids and glycolic acid, niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most proven, tried and true anti-aging actives. Several Maelove products incorporate this versatile ingredient. NIA 10 Calming Serum contains 10% niacinamide, and is considered our niacinamide booster serum. Peptide Squad also incorporates niacinamide into your routine, as well as our moisturizers Hydro Relief and Plush Cream. You do not need all of these products, but it is a good idea to incorporate at least one product in your routine that contains niacinamide.

Adding Fade Away Brightening Serum to your routine is advisable if you have dark spots that are one of your primary concerns. It is our hyperpigmentation specialist and contains a trio of depigmenting agents that are hydroquinone alternatives. This trio (alpha-arbutin, kojic acid, licorice root extract) are tyrosinase inhibitors that inhibit the production of melanin from overactive melanocytes. It also contains glutathione, red algae, and a host of botanical extracts that represent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actives that help to prevent further hyperpigmentation at its source. This serum can be added to this anti-aging kit for more intensive treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Adding Eye Enhancer De-Puffing Peptide cream can help reduce the dark circles and puffy eye bags underneath your eyes, as well as reduce the expression lines around your eyes. It includes peptides Eyeseryl and Argireline as well as caffeine to specifically target these concerns.

Finally, it is highly advisable to always wear sunscreen during the day. A broad-spectrum SPF 30 product is recommended by the AAD. The Sun Protector is a 100% mineral broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen.

The Glow Maker and The Night Renewer can both be used while pregnant or lactating.

However, do not use Moonlight while pregnant or lactating. Topical Retinoids are deemed unsafe to use while pregnant due to risk of birth defects from systemic absorption, i.e. your bloodstream. If you are pregnant or lactating, we recommend using the Peptide Squad serum in lieu of Moonlight.

Always double check ingredients with your doctor and follow their protocol.If you want to learn more, please check out this newsletter.

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Leydon J, Stein-Gold L, Weiss J (2017). “Why topical retinoids are mainstay of therapy for acne.” Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) 7: 293-304.

Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ (2012). “Effects of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Hydroxy acids on Sun-Exposed Skin: Current Applications and Future Developments.” Dermatology Research and Practice. Doi: 10.1155/2012/710893.
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Zasada M and Budzisz E (2019). “Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments.” Adv Dermatol Allergol XXXVI(4): 392-397.

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