Super Smooth AHA + BHA Resurfacing Serum

Skin renewal and natural exfoliation can weaken for many reasons. For example, those who struggle with acne or dry skin have less natural exfoliation and often benefit from hydroxy acids. However, at some point, everyone will experience the weakening of these natural processes in the course of aging.

In young adults, the top epidermal layer of the skin entirely renews itself every 28 days, while this process takes 40 to 60 days in more mature skin. This means dead skin cells accumulate longer on the surface of older skin making the skin look rough and scaly, the pores look enlarged, and the complexion look dull (Rodan et al. 2016). Regular removal of dead skin smooths out skin and evens out skin tone while encouraging quicker renewal of the epidermis by the deeper underlying skin cells - helping to mimic the process in younger skin (Kornhauser et al. 2010).

This weakening of natural exfoliation with age is in part because the cohesion between dead skin cells increases in older adults. Perfection Peptide P3 (Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate) has been engineered to disrupt the binding between dead skin cells to make them less “sticky.” It does so by mimicking the cell adhesion recognition (CAR) site and competing with it. Tested in a placebo-controlled human study, application of these peptides led to smoother skin and decreased epidermal renewal times to values similar to young skin (Schmid et al. 2006). Combining these peptides and a blend of lower concentration hydroxy acids in one serum allow for the gentle and yet highly effective exfoliation to occur.

AHAs are water soluble hydroxy acids that exfoliate dead skin cells at the skin surface. Lactic acid and glycolic acid represent the best studied and most effective AHAs. In contrast, BHA salicylic acid is oil soluble and can penetrate sebum rich pores to help unclog them and keep them clear (Kornhauser et al. 2010).

Lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid at high medical-grade concentrations are used in chemical peels by professionals, while the upper limit of concentration for hydroxy acids in at-home formulations are ideal for instant skin rejuvenation (i.e. 10% glycolic acid in Night Renewer cream). However, in those with sensitive skin, or those with older skin that is thin and sensitive, these high acid concentration products are too harsh and irritating.

The Super Smooth serum combines a gentle blend of lower concentration AHAs with BHA salicylic acid boosted by the latest in skin smoothing peptide technology (Perfection Peptide P3) to smooth the surface of the skin but in a gentle and and more tolerable manner. This makes the serum appropriate for those with the most sensitive and fragile skin types such as those with a disrupted skin barrier or those with thinned aged skin or those who are aiming for a “glass skin” like finish to their skin.

There are other benefits to using hydroxy acids for aging skin as well particularly with AHAs glycolic, tartaric, and lactic acid. These include benefits to fine lines and hyperpigmentation (Bernstein et al. 2001, Stiller et al 1996, Kornhauser et al. 2010). However, to get these full benefits, if your skin can tolerate it, a high potency AHA product such as Night Renewer with 10% glycolic acid would be a good choice.

Hydroxy acids also help lower the pH of the skin in support of the natural acid mantle. The surface of the skin has a naturally acidic pH between 4 and 6 and this acidity is necessary for maintaining a healthy skin barrier (Lukic et al. 2021). This is because enzymes that build lipid-rich lamellar membranes of the stratum corneum operate best at a low pH < 5. In contrast, serine proteases that degrade these enzymes operate better at a higher pH. Acidifying the skin with HAs have been shown to activate skin barrier supporting enzymes while decreasing serine protease activity (Hachem et al. 2010). Hence this serum can be useful in an anti-aging regimen when combined with other products.

Please consult your doctor before using this product while pregnant. While the CIR states up to 2% salicylic acid is safe to use while pregnant, some doctors may say to avoid it altogether as high concentrations of salicylic acid are harmful to the developing fetus (Chien et al. 2016). It is recommended to discontinue use of this product while nursing. At Maelove, we recommend that you first speak with your doctor about this ingredient to get their opinion. Please check out our extended writeup on how to treat acne while pregnant.

Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ (2010). “Application of hydroxy acids: Classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity.” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 3:135-142.

Rodan K, Fields K, Majewski G, Falla T. “Skincare Bootcamp: The evolving role of skincare.” (2016). Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open: e1152. doi:10.1097/GOX.0000000000001152.

Schmid D, Belser E, Liechti Ch, Zulli F (2006). “Skin Rejuvenation with a Biomimetic Peptide Designed to Promote Desquamation.” SOFW-Journal 132: 3-2006. https://mibellebiochemistry.com/perfectionpeptide-p3

Babilas P, Knie U, Ables C. “Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids.” (2012). JDDG 10:488-491.
Bernstein EF, Lee J, Brown DB, Yu R, Van Scott E (2001). “Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin.” Dermatol Surg. 27(5):429–433.

Hachem JP, Roelandt T, Schurer N, Pu X, Fluhr J, Giddelo C, Man MQ, Crumrine D, Roseeuw D, Feinhold KR, Mauro T, Elias PM (2010). “Acute Acidification of Stratum Corneum Membrane Domains Using Polyhydroxy Acids Improves Lipid Processing and Inhibits Degradation of Corneodesmosomes.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 130:500-510.

Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ (2010). “Application of hydroxy acids: Classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity.” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 3:135-142.

Lukic M, Pantelic I, Savic SD (2021). “Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products.” Cosmetics 8,69.//doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030069Stiller MJ, Bartolone J, Stern R, Smith S, Kollias N, Gillies R, et al. Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. A double-blind vehicle-controlled clinical trial. Arch Dermatol 1996;132:631-636.

Chien AL, Rainer B, Sachs DL, Helfrich YR (2016). “Treatment of Acne in Pregnancy.” J Am Board Fam Med. 29: 254-262.