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What causes milia and how do you get rid of them

Written by Jackie Kim · March 03, 2023 · 5 min read
What causes milia and how do you get rid of them

Milia are small, white keratin-filled cysts that can appear on the skin — harmless, but often stubborn. Here's what causes them, how they differ from whiteheads, and what you can actually do about them.

Today we address the question: What are milia? And what are the treatment options?

Milia look like small, white bumps on the skin. They're basically keratin trapped under the skin. They're harmless, so there isn't a pressing medical need to treat them. And often they go away naturally — but if not, they can be extracted by a dermatologist or treated with a topical retinoid.

Regular exfoliation, either with a chemical exfoliant like hydroxy acids or mechanical exfoliation with a scrub, can help prevent milia.

QUICK COMPARISON

Milia can be confused with whiteheads, which are part of the early stages of acne. Whiteheads are full of sebum often mixed with bacteria that festers into acne pustules — whereas milia are full of keratin and are hard little bumps. Both conditions can be alleviated by exfoliation with hydroxy acids or gentle exfoliating scrubs, and treated with retinoids.

If you're new here, my name is Jackie and I'm the CEO and Chief Product Obsessor here at Maelove.


What are milia?

Milia, also commonly called milk spots, are small, bumpy white cysts that form on your skin.

image of milia

What are cysts? Think of cysts like sacs full of stuff just under the skin's surface. In the case of milia, these are sacs full of keratin — a structural protein that forms your hair, nails, and the tough outer layer of your skin. Below is a closeup of a milium cyst. Milium is just the singular version of milia.

biopsy of milium

Basically, your body naturally sheds the outermost layer of the skin on a regular basis, so that new growth can take its place. However, when the old layer doesn't shed properly, new skin can grow on top of it, trapping spots of old skin underneath.

Milia can also be caused when skin heals from damage but does not do so in a completely correct way. It's called traumatic milia or secondary milia — and it can occur after damage to your skin such as burns, bad blisters, or sunburn (Berk and Bayliss 2008).


Who gets milia? Milia versus closed comedones / whiteheads

Milia can be confused with whiteheads or pimples which result from clogged pores. These clogged pores are full of dead skin, sebum (an oily substance made by sebaceous glands), and bacteria.

Milia, on the other hand, is full of keratin (Epstein and Kligman 1956). They often form in sweat glands, though not always (Tsuji et al. 1975).

Milia (Keratin Cysts)
Hard, white, dome-shaped bumps filled with keratin. No opening on the skin's surface — they cannot be popped. Common on eyelids, around the eyes, and on the forehead. Very common in infants (where they disappear on their own after a few weeks) and in adults.
Whiteheads (Closed Comedones)
Soft, flesh-colored or white bumps caused by clogged pores full of dead skin, sebum, and bacteria. An opening exists at the skin surface. Can progress into inflamed acne pustules if left untreated.

Milia will often go away on their own, but in cases where they do not, topical retinoids are typically prescribed. Milia can also be quickly excised by a dermatologist in a professional setting.

To excise milia, the skin needs to be punctured first with a knife or needle — since milia are entirely enclosed by skin — before the hard keratin is squeezed out with an extractor. Since milia are often close to the surface of the skin, chemical peels may also be used to remove them.


What can I expect if I have milia?

If you have milia and the bumps on your skin aren't clearing up on their own, there are things you can try to help them go away faster.

1
Exfoliate regularly to prevent formation
Since milia form when dead skin isn't sloughed off correctly, regular exfoliation is key for prevention. Try chemical exfoliants like hydroxy acids (glycolic acid or lactic acid) or a gentle mechanical exfoliating scrub. An exfoliating scrub worked well for me in my own experiences dealing with occasional milia.
2
Use retinoids once milia have formed
Once milia have actually formed, retinoids are typically prescribed since they help your skin turn over the outer layer more efficiently. Serums or creams containing retinoids are also recommended for acne and whiteheads.
3
See a dermatologist for professional removal
You can always take a trip to the doctor's office for quick, safe extraction. A dermatologist can puncture the skin and properly remove the keratin with an extractor tool, or use a chemical peel for surface-level milia.
CAUTION

Don't pick at the bumps or squeeze them. You can cause skin injury or infection that leads to scarring or hyperpigmentation. Milia have no opening on the skin's surface, so they cannot be popped like whiteheads or blackheads. If you want them removed, visit a dermatologist to do it properly.

Super Smooth AHA BHA Resurfacing Serum
Super Smooth AHA BHA Resurfacing Serum
Chemical exfoliation with hydroxy acids to help prevent milia by keeping dead skin from building up under the surface.
Shop Super Smooth
Moonlight Retinal Serum
Moonlight Retinal Serum
A retinoid serum that promotes efficient skin cell turnover — the go-to topical treatment once milia have already formed.
Shop Moonlight

Also worth exploring: Maelove's Deep Exfoliating Clay Scrub for mechanical exfoliation.

DISCLAIMER

No content on this site should ever be used as a substitute for direct medical advice from your doctor or other qualified clinician.

References
  • Berk DR, Bayliss SJ (2008). "Milia: A review and classification." J Am Acad Dermatol. 59(6): 1050–1063.
  • Epstein W, Kligman AM (1956). "The pathogenesis of milia and benign tumors of the skin." J Invest Dermatol 26(1): 1–11.
  • Tsuji T, Sugai T, Suzuki S (1975). "The mode of growth of eccrine duct milia." J Invest Dermatol 65: 388–393.