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All About Hyaluronic Acid (Casual Science Edition)

Written by Team Maelove · July 31, 2024 · 5 min read
All About Hyaluronic Acid (Casual Science Edition)

Hyaluronic acid is everywhere in skincare right now — but what actually makes it so special? It can hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water, it's naturally found in your body, and it's gentle enough for even the most sensitive skin. Here's everything you need to know.

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We think hyaluronic acid is great

And there are two main reasons why:

It holds an incredible amount of water
Hyaluronic acid can attract and hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. This water-holding ability is so remarkable and unique in nature that hyaluronic acid is naturally found in many organisms, including humans — which is why it's sometimes called "nature's moisturizer."
It's universally well-tolerated
Because hyaluronic acid is natural to the human body, it won't cause allergic reactions. Even if you have sensitive skin or an inflammatory skin condition like rosacea, psoriasis, or eczema, your skin will be able to tolerate it just fine.

So, whether in a serum or a cream, hyaluronic acid is a good moisturizing ingredient that is well-tolerated by virtually everyone.


What exactly is hyaluronic acid?

When we see the word "acid," our minds may conjure up images of exfoliating acids, such as hydroxy acids like glycolic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid. Or maybe something even more frightening, like hydrochloric acid, which can burn skin.

Hyaluronic acid is actually made up of two types of sugar molecules that repeat over and over. These sugars are called d-Glucuronic acid and d-N-acetylglucosamine. Don't worry if you can't pronounce them :)

These sugar molecules join together to form chains (referred to as polysaccharides). These chains can get really long — sometimes thousands of sugar molecules long.

KEY INSIGHT

What's special about hyaluronic acid is how it acts in water. When mixed with water, it stretches out into long, loose chains that intertwine together, forming a jelly that allows it to hold 1,000 times its weight in water. This water-attracting and holding property makes it an amazing humectant — perfect for hydrating skin.

Humectants are usually incorporated into moisturizing serums and creams because they can hold onto water to help hydrate the skin.

Side note: Glycerin, urea, and panthenol (provitamin B5) are other very commonly used humectants in skincare.


How is hyaluronic acid good for aging skin?

Hyaluronic acid, found throughout the body, is most concentrated in the skin, where it helps retain moisture. In fact, 50% of your body's hyaluronic acid is in your skin. It's also found in the umbilical cord, joint fluid, eye fluid, and all body tissues like bones, heart valves, and lungs.

In the skin, hyaluronic acid is one of the glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) that are naturally present and functions to hold water and keep the skin hydrated. It's the most predominant GAG in the body.

Side note: Other GAGs include dermatan sulfate, chondroiton 4-sulfate and chondroitin-6 sulfate.

WHAT HAPPENS WITH AGE

As you age, the natural levels of GAGs like hyaluronic acid decrease, reducing your skin's ability to retain water. UV damage further worsens this issue. Combined with the natural decline of waterproofing lipids like ceramides, the result is dry, less-plump skin.

One solution is using hydrating serums and creams applied topically. Humectants like hyaluronic acid attract and retain water, while waterproofing lipids such as ceramides, oils, waxes, and fats help prevent water evaporation.

Applying a topical product containing hyaluronic acid essentially hydrates the surface of your skin and creates a humid microenvironment. This increases the moisture content within the skin and reduces water evaporation.

PRO TIP

Topical retinoids will also increase hyaluronic acid levels inside the skin — and this is part of how retinoids help improve wrinkles. So if you want to boost hyaluronic acid from the inside out, try a retinoid like retinaldehyde (aka retinal), retinol, or tretinoin.


How best to use hyaluronic acid products

Hyaluronic acid plays well with other ingredients whether it is in a serum or a cream.

1
Layer serums thin to thick
When using a serum, layer it with other serums by applying them from the thinnest to the thickest texture (watery to gel-like). Check out the How to Layer guide for more detail.
2
Apply cream after serums
If hyaluronic acid is in a cream, apply the cream after your serums to lock in moisture and prevent water evaporation.
3
Spritz first in dry environments
If you're in a very dry environment — an arid climate, during winter, or on an airplane — spritz your skin with water before applying a hyaluronic acid product. Since hyaluronic acid effectively attracts and retains water, this ensures it draws moisture from the environment rather than from your skin.
4
Store properly
If you start using your hyaluronic acid serums or creams soon after you buy them, room temperature is fine. However, if you won't use them for a while, store them in the refrigerator.

Maelove products with hyaluronic acid

At Maelove, we have a specialty hyaluronic acid serum that also contains panthenol:

Hydrator B5 Gel
Our dedicated hyaluronic acid + panthenol (provitamin B5) serum — a lightweight, gel-like formula that floods skin with moisture and leaves it visibly plump and smooth.
Shop Hydrator B5

You'll also find hyaluronic acid featured in a number of our other products:

Brightening vitamin C paired with hyaluronic acid for a luminous, hydrated complexion.
Multi-peptide serum with hyaluronic acid to support collagen and keep skin firm and hydrated.
Caffeine and peptide eye cream with hyaluronic acid to reduce puffiness and keep the delicate eye area moisturized.
Overnight resurfacing cream with glycolic acid and hyaluronic acid to smooth texture while you sleep.
A featherweight moisturizer with hyaluronic acid for all-day hydration without any heaviness.
A gentle ceramide cleanser with hyaluronic acid that cleanses without stripping moisture from the skin.

If you would like much more in-depth discussions as well as scientific references, we'll be publishing our Deep Guide to Hyaluronic Acid soon. Stay tuned!