Night Renewer Glycolic Acid Cream

Complete skin (epidermal) renewal occurs approximately every 28 days in young adults, while the same process takes 40 to 60 days in older people. This accumulated layer of dead skin makes the skin look rougher and the pores look more enlarged. Light reflecting on the skin also reveals a dull surface (Rodan et al. 2016). By chemically exfoliating these dead cells with hydroxy acids, one can immediately reveal smoother, brighter, and younger looking skin. Regular sloughing off of dead skin cells can also encourage faster turnover of the underlying skin cells, which again mimics the renewal process in younger skin (Kornhauser et al. 2010).

A 10% concentration of glycolic acid is the upper allowable limit for cosmetic products as regulated by the FDA. At this concentration, glycolic acid creams can be safely used and with good tolerability (Abels et al. 2011). Further, at this concentration, glycolic acid creams can be used daily, and will serve as a powerful chemical exfoliant which will improve skin texture, the appearance of lines and wrinkles. and fade hyperpigmentation over a long time. This is because the increased cell turnover will help slough off hyperpigmented skin and rapidly disperse existing pigment which helps to fade the appearance of hyperpigmentation (Kornhauser et al. 2012). Hence, a glycolic acid cream is a helpful adjunct to use along with serums that treat hyperpigmentation by quickening the process by which hyperpigmented spots are sloughed off.

Those looking for a quicker fix will often opt for a chemical peel which also may use glycolic acid but at a much higher concentrations of up to 40%. However, these quicker fixes which should only be done 1 or 2 times annually, chew through living tissue as well as dead skin cells, and so while they may be able to fade deep pigmentation and remove deep imperfections in the skin, they also may lead to scarring and require a longer healing time (Arif 2015, Chilicka et al. 2020, Garg et al. 2009, Sharad 2018).

In addition to exfoliation, high potency glycolic acid can have other benefits as well. Though not typically thought of as a collagen booster, glycolic acid can activate underlying cellular processes that accelerate collagen synthesis by fibroblasts, and modulate matrix degradation through keratinocyte released cytokines (Okano et al. 2003). This collagen building ability was found to increase with increasing concentrations of glycolic acid all while avoiding triggering inflammation when kept at a pH of 4 or higher (Narda et al. 2020). In sun-damaged skin, glycolic acid was found to increase hyaluronic acid content in the epidermis and dermis as well as increasing collagen synthesis and epidermal thickness (Bernstein et al. 2001). In other words, glycolic acid creams are a helpful adjunct to use along with other more powerful anti-aging ingredients such as retinoids to aid in the collagen building process.

Next, glycolic acid creams can maintain the acidic pH level of the skin by supporting the acid mantle which in turn has a wide range of benefits. The skin surface and stratum corneum have a naturally acidic pH between 4.1 and 5.8 and this acidity (also referred to as “acid mantle”) is essential for maintaining the health of the skin (Lukic et al. 2021). Enzymes that build ceramides and other lipids in the skin barrier function best at a pH below 5, while increased pH activates serine proteases that degrade the skin barrier (Hachem et al. 2010). An acidic skin pH is necessary for a functioning skin barrier, which keeps bad bacteria like P. acnes out and keeps moisture in. By supporting the acid mantle, hydroxy acid creams have been shown to kill P. acnes bacteria, and increase skin moisture and strengthen the skin barrier (Valle-Gonzalez et al. 2020, Hachem et al. 2010, Rawlings et al 1996). Along with its exfoliative properties, supporting the acid mantle is one way in which high potency glycolic acid creams treat mild acne even when used alone as a monotherapy (Abels et al. 2011).

Since glycolic acid creams will increase the sun sensitivity of the skin (Kaidbey et al. 2003), this product should be used only at night, and paired with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 during the day. High potency glycolic acid creams may also be irritating, particularly for those with sensitive skin. A supporting cast of squalane, shea butter, arnica flower, aloe, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid allows this high strength product to simultaneously hydrate, soothe and further soften and moisturize skin making it easier to tolerate for those with sensitive skin. However, for those with very sensitive skin, a lower potency hydroxy acid serum with skin smoothing peptides such as the Super Smooth serum is a better option.

Yes. Glycolic acid and other alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as lactic acid have been tested in animals and showed no teratogenic effects (Chien et al. 2016, Putra et al. 2022). Glycolic acid and lactic acid are only absorbed through the skin and into the bloodstream in negligible amounts and is considered safe in pregnancy at the levels used in over the counter products (Bozzo et al. 2011, Putra et al. 2022). The moisturizing ingredients are all considered generally safe to use topically during pregnancy and lactation. However, it is always advisable to check with your doctor regarding skin care products and ingredients.

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