Hyaluronic acid has been described as nature’s moisturizer and is found throughout the human body including in the dermis and in the basal level of the epidermis. It is one of the most common glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the skin. As a GAG, it helps maintain the skin’s hydration and turgor and also helps transport water soluble nutritional material to the skin cells. This usefulness is due to the fact that hyaluronic acid loves water and attracts it and holds onto it (molecules that do so are called humectants). Hyaluronic acid is so good a humectant, it can hold 1000 times it’s weight in water! (Necas et al. 2008).

How does it do that? Well, hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide which means it is made up of sugar molecules bonded together. Specifically, it is formed by repeating units of 2 sugars, one of which is d-glucoronic acid and the other is d-N-acetylglucosamine. These sugars form chains that can get very large, in fact several thousands of sugars long. These long and loose chains when combined with water intertwine together forming a water-rich jelly. As you age, the levels of hyaluronic acid inside skin declines in part contributing to dry skin with aging (Gupta et al. 2019).

Hyaluronic acid is a large, big and bulky molecule and topically applied, it will not penetrate and enter into the skin where it is naturally found. Instead, it will sit on top of the skin and create a humid microenvironment that helps with hydration and gives the skin a dewy appearance. It serves a similar function as other natural moisturizing factors that sit on top of the skin. And since hyaluronic acid is a natural part of your body, there are no real toxic or allergic effects in its natural state. Note that if you want to increase hyaluronic acid content inside the skin, turn to a retinoid product (Maelove’s Moonlight or Stargaze) or a peptide product that contains signal and carrier peptides (Maelove’s Peptide Squad).

Some products on the market have tried to make smaller weight hyaluronic acid products that can penetrate into the skin (Essendoubi et al. 2016). We do not recommend this at Maelove as small pieces of hyaluronic acid that can penetrate into the skin have been found to trigger inflammation (Chen and Abatangelo 1999, McKee et al. 1996). In fact, wounds treated with natural high molecular weight hyaluronic acid won’t be scarred, but those treated with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid will have increased scarring (Necas et al. 2008). When you are looking at ingredient lists, avoid anything that says hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid or anything that claims to contain low molecular weight hyaluronic acid or a wide variety of molecular weights. We keep it simple here at Maelove, and only include natural, larger hyaluronic acid that will not penetrate the skin.

In the Hydrator, super humectant hyaluronic acid is combined with another superior and natural humectant: panthenol. Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, has been used for over 70 years to treat and moisturize skin and hair. It is a powerful anti-inflammatory that can be absorbed by the skin where it is converted into pantothenic acid, Vitamin B5. In this form, it can aid in the production of fatty acids and sphingolipids that strengthen the skin barrier (Proksch et al. 2017). Further, in double-blind clinical trials conducted over several decades, panthenol has been found to be effective at fighting redness, irritation, and chronic inflammation of skin (Proksch et al. 2017, Stettler et al. 2016, Scott et al 2022), well tolerated in those with sensitive skin (Nisbet et al. 2019) and by healthy infants (Stettler et al. 2017).

Yes you can. The actives in The Hydrator including hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and resveratrol are all considered generally safe to use topically during pregnancy and lactation. However, it is always advisable to check with your doctor regarding skin care products and ingredients.

To make the most out of Hydrator, we would recommend applying a moisturizer on top to seal in the serum. Another pro-tip would be to spritz your skin with water before applying.

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it draws moisture towards it and holds onto it. However, it can't hold onto hydration well if your skin or the environment around you is already dry. Layering a cream over the serum will seal in the hydration and also provide a moisture source for the hyaluronic acid to absorb from to benefit the deeper layers of your skin.

Gupta RC, Rajiv L. Srivastava A, Sinha A (2019) “Hyaluronic Acid: Molecular Mechanisms and Therapeutic Trajectory.” Front Vet Sci 6: 192. Doi: 10.3389/fvets.2019.00192

Necas J, Bartosikova L, Brauner P, Kolar J (2008). “Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan): a review.” Veterinarni Medicina 53(8): 397-411.

Chen WY, Abatangelo G (1999). “Functions of hyaluronan in wound repair.” Wound Rep Reg 7: 79-89

Essendoubi M, Gobinet C, Reynaud R, Angiboust JF, Manfait M, Piot O (2016). “Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman Spectroscopy.” Skin Research and Technology 22(1): 55-62.

McKee CM, Penno MB, Cowman M, Burdick MD, Strieter RM, Bao C, Noble PW. “Hyaluronan (HA) Fragments Induce Chemokine Gene Expression in Alveolar Macrophages.” J Clin Invest 98(10): 2403-2413.

Necas J, Bartosikova L, Brauner P, Kolar J (2008). “Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan): a review.” Veterinarni Medicina 53(8): 397-411.

Nisbet SJ, Targett D, Rawlings AV, Qian K, Wang X, Lin CB, Thompson MA, Bulsara PA, Moore DJ (2019). “Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin.’ Int J Cosmet Sci 41: 534-547.

Proksch E, de Bony R, Trapp S, Boudon S (2017). “Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article.” J Dermatol Treatment 28(8): 766-773.

Scott LN, Fiume M, Bergfield WF, Belsito DV, Hill RA, Klaassen CD, Liebler DC, Marks Jr JG, Shank RC, Slaga TJ, Snyder PW, Heldreth B (2022). “Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics.” Int J Toxicol 41(3_suppl): 77-128.

Stettler H, Kurka P, Lunau N, Manger C, Bohling A, Bielfeldt S, Wilhelm KP, Dahnhardt-Pfeiffer S, Dahnhardt D, Brill FHH, Lenz H (2016). “A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora.” J Dermatol Treatment 28(2): 173-180.

Stettler H, Kurka P, Wagner C, Sznurkowka K, Czernicka O, Bohling A, Bielfeldt S, Wilhelm KP, Lenz H. J (2017). “A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: skin-moisturizing effect following single and prolonged usage in healthy adults, and tolerability in healthy infants.” J Dermatol Treatment 28(3): 251-257.