The Exfoliator BHA + Clay Facial Scrub

Since ancient times, exfoliants have been used to improve skin youth and vigor. In modern times, chemical exfoliants in the form of hydroxy acids, and physical exfoliants that mechanically exfoliate dead skin cells have emerged as the prime means by which the natural process of skin renewal can be complemented (Kornhauser et al. 2010).

In younger adults, the skin's outer layer fully renews about every month. However, as we age, this rate can slow down by up to 50%, and the skin's natural shedding process diminishes. This build-up of dead skin cells can cause the skin to appear more uneven and lackluster, make pores seem enlarged, and highlight wrinkles more prominently (Rodan et al. 2016).

Regular exfoliation can instantly unveil a more radiant, smooth, and youthful complexion. Moreover, exfoliants aid in clearing blocked pores, which can alleviate acne concerns. Clay-based scrubs are beneficial in absorbing excess sebum and impurities, ensuring the skin remains clear and purified. Consistent exfoliation can also kickstart the skin's revitalization process which mimics the renewal process in younger skin (Kornhauser et al. 2010).

Hydroxy acids are the main chemical exfoliants as they loosen cell to cell adhesions between dead skin cells allowed for easier removal. Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) salicylic acid in particular is widely used due to the fact that it is fat-soluble and able to penetrate deep into the pores of the skin which are full of sebum. Sebum is an oily substance secreted by sebaceous glands in your skin located within the pores. While sebum is useful in helping the skin be waterproof, it can also accumulate in the pores collecting dirt, pollutants and dead skin cells, ultimately clogging the pore and leading to the formation of acne. Salicylic acid can help unclog pores helping keep skin clear and clean and is often used in the treatment of acne (Kornhauser et al. 2010).

The key benefit to mechanical exfoliation is that results are instant. By rubbing physical exfoliators across the face in circular motions, dead skin cells are gently buffed off. In the past, harsh exfoliating scrubs have employed microbeads or large particles that could lead to micro-tears and skin damage, increasing redness or acne breakouts (AAD). In recent times, gentle mechanical exfoliants such as pulverized kaolin clay and diatomaceous earth have been employed to safely exfoliate skin with very fine particles. Further, clay minerals such as kaolin in particular are considered effective cleansing agents as they can absorb excess oils and impurities, as well as having antimicrobial activity (Awad et al. 2017, Gubitosa et al. 2019).

Please consult your doctor before using this product while pregnant. While the CIR states up to 2% salicylic acid is safe to use while pregnant, some doctors may say to avoid it altogether as high concentrations of salicylic acid are harmful to the developing fetus (Chien et al. 2016). It is recommended to discontinue use of this product while nursing. At Maelove, we recommend that you first speak with your doctor about this ingredient to get their opinion. Please check out our extended writeup on how to treat acne while pregnant.

Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ (2010). “Application of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity.” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 3: 135-142.

Rodan K, Fields K, Majewski G, Falla T (2016). “Skincare Bootcamp: The evolving role of skincare.” Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open: e1152. Doi:10.1097/GOX.0000000000001152.

Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ (2010). “Application of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity.” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 3: 135-142.

American Academy of Dermatology Association. “How to safely exfoliate at home”. https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/routine/safely-exfoliate-at-home

Awad ME, Lopez-Galindo A, Setti M, El-Rahmany MM, Iborra CV. “Kaolinite in pharmaceutics and biomedicine.” Int J Pharm 25:533(1): 34-48.

Gubitosa J, Rizzi V, Fini P, Cosma P (2019). “Hair Care Cosmetics: From Traditional Shampoo to Solid Clay and Herbal Shampoo, A Review.” Cosmetics. 6(13): doi: 10.3390/cosmetics6010013.

Chien AL, Rainer B, Sachs DL, Helfrich YR (2016). “Treatment of Acne in Pregnancy.” J Am Board Fam Med. 29: 254-262.